Asking for a martini today is merely a socially acceptable way of asking for a bottle of gin

You have to work hard to get away from the fact that asking for a martini today is merely a socially acceptable way of asking for a bottle of gin - hold the brown paper bag - and could it come direct from the freezer, rather than its hiding place in the corner of the wardrobe, please? And drinking virtually neat gin is an act that tends to be frowned upon otherwise in most middle-class circles. 

V. Moore, How to drink (2009), 284