The custom of drinking a little glass of rich wine with a sweet dish or fruit seems to me a civilized one, and especially welcome to those who do not or cannot swig brandy or port after a meal. The great dessert wines of Bordeaux and the Rhine are rather beyond the reach or ordinary mortals and are in any case wines that demand a certain ceremony. Your meal has to work up to them. The wine of Beaumes, although so rare, seems somehow more within the scope of the simplest or even of an improvised meal.
E. David, 'Golden Delicious [The Spectator, 10 January 1964]' An omelette and a glass of wine (1984), 84
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