But now, food colourings are back with a vengeance with the 'rainbow' food of Instagram, notably rainbow bagels. What's a rainbow bagel? It is, as one online critic puts it, 'a dense overworked phosphorescent ring of disappointment'. A rainbow bagel is made from dough dyed from seven different food colourings and baked into a ring-shaped brad roll that would look too garish even at a five-year-old's birthday party. Only on Instagram could such a thing seem better than normal bread. It is an idea of joy, rather than actual joy.
B. Wilson, The way we eat now (2019), 193-4
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